Carb Sync
I use a Carb Stix on all my triples, and other twins as well for balance adjustment. Expect to see the mercury levels down at the bottom of the vials, maybe as low as two lines from the bottom, this is normal for these engines.
There should be bosses on the other two carbs that are the same place as on the one with the vacuum tube. Drill and tap for vacuum fittings there. Any and all vacuum fittings should be placed between the piston and the rear of the carb slide.
I've really had no troubles with the Uni-Syn
operation. I've done a load of bikes with one, but, Uni-Syn used to have one
that was remote, used a hose from the vial to the adapter.
When using a Uni-Syn, the whole idea is to set the carbs the same, from one to
the rest. If the float height is changed from one carb to another in an effort
to get them equal, the test is negated.
This carb synching thing is not really fun. Start with the idle. Set the Uni-Syn
to one carb, then move it, set the idle stop screw to match the first carb, then
do the last one. If the idle is too high or low, reset the Uni-syn and go around
again, until the idle speed is where it should be, and all the carbs float the
float the same. Sometimes, it takes a little time and effort, and isn't easy.
The last synch is done with the throttle cable at the handlebar holding the
carbs open at about 2,500 rpms, bike either on center stand or held as upright
as possible, front wheel straight ahead. Set the Uni-Syn to read one carb, then
set the others via the cable adjusters, and it may take a few adjustments on
both the Uni-Syn and the other carbs to get it done, hang in there, and don't
give up.
A large fan on each side of the front end helps keep the engine cooler while
doing the carb synch.
Only benefit with a manometer over a Uni-Syn is, you don't have to move the
Uni-Syn from carb mouth to carb mouth.
With other methods, as the one described with the drill bits, is, those
adjustments rely on the idle synch being dead on. Also, with carb bores not
being dead exact, setting the slides by holding the carb slides all the way open
and putting as finger into the bores, won't get the carb slides synched
correctly for off idle, BUT, will help get them close enough to lessen the time
and work needed for synching with the Uni-Syn.
Don't forget to set/check the oil pump setting after you get the carb synch
dialed in, and don't forget to lock the cable adjuster down at the throttle grip
after setting the off idle cable synch. Leave enough slack so the turning of the
handlebars doesn't affect the throttle cable and raise engine speed when turned
lock to lock.
No matter which one you use, manometer or Uni-Syn, it'll get you there, and
synched nicely.
I have found that doing the Uni-Syn adjustments, there may be the need to do
readjustment of the vacuum closedown on the gauge often if the carb synch is
really off a lot. It is just a back and forth action, set Uni-syn, check and
adjust carbs, if the float goes off the scale, readjust it, keep the engine
speed at the rpm you want, readjust, readjust, until the thing reads the same on
all carbs. It is audience participation at its highest level, just have to get
to it and do it. What...you wanted this to be an easy task...never!