Clutch Adjustment
Check the clutch release and cable adjustments and
lube the clutch cable.
To adjust the clutch release, first remove the sprocket cover on the left side
of the engine. Just ahead of the front sprocket and chain, you will see the end
of the clutch cable, fitted to the clutch release.
Next, look at the clutch cable, along its run beside the carbs. There should be
an inline adjuster that needs to be made as short as it can. There will be a
large body, a lock nut and an opposite end adjuster, Loosen the nut, turn the
ends together to slack the cable. Do the same at the clutch cable adjuster at
the lever holder on the handlebar. You want the clutch lever to come completely
back to the handlebar without even trying to release the clutch.
Then, down at the clutch release, there will be a nut and screw. Loosen the nut,
then turn the screw inwards, right hand rotation, until you just feel resistance
against the screw. Stop, back the screw off 3/8ths of a turn, lock the locknut
down, replace the sprocket cover.
Then, at the handlebar, make the adjuster have about two complete turns out from
all the way in. The lever will still not release the clutch.
Last step, turn the inline cable adjuster down at the carbs, to give the lever
on the handlebar about 1/2 inch pull from its at rest position before it starts
to release the clutch. Lock the adjuster with the locknut.
Test ride, see if it still slips.
The clutch should begin to release with about 10mms
(3/8ths of an inch) of lever travel at the handlebar when the engine is at full
operating temperature, not a quarter or halfway back to the bar. As long as
there is free play in the cable, and there is 3/8ths of a turn on the adjustment
screw backed off on the release mechanism, and the clutch doesn't slip, you are
fine.
There will be a bit of free spin to the rear wheel when on the center stand and
out of gear, this is normal and not a concern. You should be able to stop the
tire when this is happening. I just touch the tire with a foot/shoe.
I run either straight 30 wt NON-SYNTHETIC motor oil or a good 90 wt gear oil
like Sta-Lube or Torco, with NO additives.
Usually, the plates aren't bad, but the springs should be replaced, and I
suggest doing what was advised in the above posts ONLY IF THE CLUTCH STILL
SLIPS, check the steels, bead blast them, and check the fibers, but do not run
Barnett plates, seek out a dealer with K&L Supply sources for Vesrah fiber
plates, and then, use the Barnett springs.
How do the plates get wiped out? Well, one of two
reasons, either adjustment/release of the clutch isn't correct, holding the
clutch partially released, AND/OR, springs are sacked out.
In 35 years of working on all sizes of triples, I've replaced only a handful of
plates, but a bunch more springs.
I'd also say that there is no way to correctly assess the clutch condition until
the adjustment is correct, and after that is done, if there is still an issue,
then, and only then, go for the internals of the clutch.
The adjustment should be done before any tearing into the inner workings, it may
not be internal.